Judd’s friend Rudi Fuchs described the artist’s vision in Marfa and in life: “In Judd’s scale of values … beauty and perfection are ultimately matters of dignity, not only of the artwork but of nature and culture in general. In Presidio County, when you greet anyone you pass on the road, the social code is to lift two fingers ever so slightly from the steering wheel. The emphasis is on works in which art and the surrounding land are inextricably linked. So I drove down to San Diego. The town has certainly been adopted by the would-be arbiters of culture: T magazine ran a series of columns on “The Real Artists of Marfa”; the painter Wilhelm Sasnal flew Solid Waste’s progenitors—the outrageous, now disbanded Latino punk group Satanic Punk International Conspiracy (yes, SPIC)—to play in Warsaw (their first trip out of Texas); and every road-tripping filmmaker just might return with a camera. Cowboy. she calls out sweetly to a pair of young hikers looking for maps. Marfa’s population peaked at 5,000 people in the 1940s, when ranching was profitable and 600 soldiers (guarding 200 German P.O.W.’s) were billeted at Chinati. In the 1970s, minimalist artist Donald Judd moved to Marfa, Texas, where he created giant works of art that bask beneath vast desert skies. On another Marfa evening we found ourselves in Elrod’s studio with the photographer and filmmaker Larry Clark (Tulsa, Kids) and David Hollander, an L.A. transplant (and child star—in Airplane! This tiny town perched on the high plains of the Chihuahua desert is nothing less than an arts world station of the cross, like Art Basel in Miami, or Documenta in Germany. Mar 1, 2014 - Marfa is a city in the high desert of the Trans-Pecos in far West Texas, located between the Davis Mountains and Big Bend National Park. And then you enter, and then we're like, 'Oh, look at this restaurant — they have vegan food!' Irwin finished the drink. As Mary Farley, who brought Christopher Wool to town, told us, “If you ever see me putting on a piece of turquoise, airlift me out of here.” It’s a place, she said, for “artists transgressing social mores.” A place where an elected official recently walked into the Museum of Electronic Wonders and Late Night Grilled Cheese Parlour after a Sean Lennon concert (in a funeral home turned bar) and shouted, “All the guys, get your dicks out and put ’em in your hands!” (These instructions were ignored.) If this all has an element of performance to it, perhaps it is due to the fact that beautiful and talented Marfans operate under the impression that they are about to become famous. The Judd Foundation took on the private side of Judd, and Chinati became the more pronouncedly public face. He said, “I wake up in San Francisco, life’s too easy—I’m the captain of my neighborhood What it’s like in Marfa, in comparison, is that every single person I’m around is absolutely 100 percent better than me.” He gestured around Elrod’s studio. Robert Irwin, the octogenarian light-and-space artist, designer of the Getty and lacma gardens, wearer of Hawaiian shirts and baseball caps, looked out at one of the largest unpopulated areas in the contiguous United States. “That’s where all the stuff is going on. 128 E. El Paso St. / 432.729.3981 / www.30x30cmproject.com. In the case of Elrod, Weiner’s endorsement brought him to the attention of the New York art dealer Pat Hearn, who sent down a truck and filled it with every painting the artist had made during the last six months of his Chinati residency. He wasn’t sure what he was doing. Marfa became a railroad water stop in 1883. Don Culbertson, who runs a Marfa medical clinic, describes the two adjacent towns, Fort Davis and Alpine (each 25 miles closer to “civilization”), as “hair catchers in the shower. All rights reserved. (A Cosmico employee told us, “There were Afghan poppies all around the trailer we gave him.”) Elrod—who “paints” abstractly on a Mac and then painstakingly re-creates the images on canvas, knitting together the handmade and the digital—moved from Brooklyn in 2007 and says, in contrast to the atmosphere of the late 90s, the experience of being in one of the many new restaurants in town is like visiting “a badass international airport bar I’m in a first-class lounge of American Airlines. David wanted to meet in El Paso and make the pilgrimage to Marfa, TX for several days of deserted landscapes and art by Donald Judd. We first went to Marfa together in 1996. Do you wear sandals? But even though the Marfa Book Co. makes the town more tourist-friendly, Johnson does not believe Judd would approve of Marfa's emergence as a chic art world destination. She made a roomful of work in Marfa for her recent show at the Tate Liverpool. "Straight-laced guy. Marfa is the kind of place where people actually want to live. When the man learned DeSimone was originally from Tiburon, California, he said, “So that’s interesting: you come from a place some would call heaven, and you’ve chosen to live in a place that some would call hell.” Yes—that is what we want you to think. The town is animated by a state of perpetual suspense: Will Irwin’s masterwork coexist alongside Judd’s and Flavin’s? And Stockebrand and Weiner, in a situation that might have led others to scramble for cash, pursued Judd’s vision and expanded the collection, rather than exclusively soliciting funding. Prada Marfa is a permanent sculptural art installation by artists Elmgreen and Dragset, located 1.4 miles (2.3 km) northwest of Valentine, Texas, just off U.S. Highway 90 (US 90), and about 26 miles (42 km) northwest of the city of Marfa. There was an attempt to appoint one of us Clark’s designated driver, a job we did not want, and managed to evade by noting that we had come by (non-tandem) bike. Only for hard core art lovers.......multi dimensional, repetitive large scale abstract art at Judd Foundation. The Marfa Book Co. is run by poet Tim Johnson, who doesn't think Judd would approve of Marfa's emergence as a chic art world destination. Like, 'Oh, perfect, our NPR station.' The film contained no leprosy. Docent Sterry Butcher advises visitors to be careful before heading toward the scrubby pasture where Judd scattered 15 giant concrete boxes, as empty and remote as the landscape. She wasn't lured to Marfa by the cool factor, or Judd's massive concrete blocks. In 2008 the former owners of an Upper East Side restaurant Ruth Reichl described, in her two-star review, as “astonishingly exuberant, accepting no limits and recognizing no boundaries” opened Cochineal in a 100-year-old adobe building. I knew about the myth of Marfa long before I made the nine-hour trek out west to the town. Texas Originals Donald Judd, The Artist. That Marfa is a scene there can be no question. Staged tableaux of various languid diplomats in a subcontinental French consulate were overlaid with passages of poetry. “So I pulled over and we talked for a while. he suavely brings a girl some coffee, only to be told, “I take it black, like my men”). Cars at odd angles filled the lot. Anthony DeSimone, a 28-year-old who is in two bands and has been cast as the lead in a forthcoming Wallace Shawn production (Rob Weiner, who co-produced Shawn’s last play, Grasses of a Thousand Colors, is directing), told the story of serving a couple dinner at Cochineal one evening. And then there is the land. Or you go through some small town and go, 'Oh, look at that old building; that'd be a great studio.' His reply: “Hell yeah, I did. Now, all 400 acres of the site are run by the Chinati Foundation. (The artist’s daughter, Rainer Judd, encouragingly, told us she’d like to see “more cooking” in the artist’s shrine-like private spaces.) Those eager to flee the COVID-infested confines of crowded cities might consider the remote art-centric hipster’s paradise, Marfa, Texas, as a possible destination. She once said, “I’m always impressed when you can feel diminished by the natural world Things can hurt you here—plants, snakes, bugs. The project of demolishing and reconstructing a hospital in order to evoke a van Eyck fits into the history of this remote border town (about 200 miles from El Paso or Midland—take your pick). The current iteration requires that the building be knocked down and reconstructed with a sunken floor and windows which begin at chest height so that, as the artist told us, “you will see a little bit of landscape and a lot of sky.” From within, the West Texas desert “will look like a Dutch landscape.” This permanent, large-scale installation will be the crowning work of his career. Yet Marfans know the alternative would be worse. Hollander, with his wife, Jennifer Lane, co-founded CineMarfa, the town’s newest film festival (the first one crashed and burned). candidate from the Iowa Writers’ Workshop; and a young curator who had publicly stated her opinion that the authors of this article were “provincial” (owing, we guessed, to our early departure from a lecture she’d organized … which led us to further surmise that she’d intended to denounce us as philistines but got confused). The Marfa Book Co. is run by poet Tim Johnson, who doesn't think Judd would approve of Marfa's emergence as a chic art world destination. Clark was smitten and just finished shooting a new film in Marfa, featuring the lead singer. Wanting to be a part of that narrative as it unfolds compels us to stay. His artistic style soon moved away from illusory media and embraced constru… "Sometimes it feels like there's more taking," she says quietly. 104 South Highland Avenue. To revist this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. hide caption. “I come to Marfa to play,” he told us. Tourist numbers are higher than ever. "He knew that people would come see it, but he did not want that to be a large part of the economy, because he thought, socially, that would have a negative impact.". A dozen partyers were inside, among them the New York artist Christopher Wool. But Marfa isn’t an outsider redoubt of the sort the Unabomber might have favored (even if David Kaczynski, his brother, did live in isolation nearby). And now he was in Marfa. Though the locals have mixed feelings about being an art mecca, Kaki Aufdengarten-Scott, Marfa's one-woman chamber of commerce, says without art tourism, "this town would have dried up and blown away." Marfa, Texas Time and space—required for the many activities that Judd’s vision would come to encompass—were primary reasons for the artist’s move from New York City to Marfa in 1973. “Nothing gets prosecuted here but drugs.”. One hundred of them, made of silvery milled aluminum, are housed in two old brick artillery sheds. "Hi, can I get you guys something?" With high-end restaurants, concerts, and theater (think André Gregory directing Endgame), it’s a have-your-cake-and-eat-it-too sort of outsiderness. Donald C. Judd, a leader of the Minimal Art movement (a term that he despised), moved to Marfa and began buying up land—a 45,000-acre ranch overlooking the Rio Grande and the abandoned Fort Russell’s artillery sheds, barracks, gymnasium, hangars, and other buildings. The town’s culture, part Mexican-American and part Anglo (“rancher”), was flinty to the point of being cranky, but its authenticity was preferable to the chirping, saccharine “Howdy—how’re y’all doin’ today?” that you find at points farther east in Texas. Judd believed: ’that art should not represent anything, that it should unequivocally stand on its own and simply exist’. "At one point, even bottling the local water, which is terrific water," he says. It's taking place a few blocks from Marfa's single stoplight in a slightly dilapidated white adobe church. It's the only place that sells The New York Times. First came Maiya’s, in the early 2000s, an Italian trattoria whose owner-chef was just nominated for a James Beard award. The works, printed on handmade Korean paper by Marfa’s Arber and Son Editions, are curated by Judd’s son, Flavin Judd. In … The Marfa renaissance started with Chinati, Judd’s public face and in many ways his unfinished work. Just in the past three years, The New York Times has run almost half a dozen features about Marfa — one solely on its handful of restaurants, including the inevitable food truck. When we pulled it out over drinks in the courtyard of the El Paisano hotel an acquaintance whistled and said, “Law enforcement carries that.” A lawyer immediately disparaged the prosecutors in Presidio County as “weaklings” who wouldn’t even go after murderers. Hollander did an animated impression of Doris Lessing’s reaction when she won the Nobel Prize. In the mid-80s, Judd parted acrimoniously with the Dia Art Foundation, which had begun pulling back from its funding obligations. I think it still really trips him out that two men would be sharing his master bedroom.". That's all you can get.' "They sold their house to a couple of gentlemen from New York City," she says, adding that the transaction was a big deal for her dad. So, in 1971, he moved to Marfa, a tiny town in the Chihuahuan desert in Texas. After an hour she said, “I’m leaving.” When the screen said “Fin” we went to Elrod’s studio, a cinder-block-and-steel building two doors down from the only stoplight in town—about as urban as Presidio County gets. There were a handful of Tex-Mex cafés with flyswatters on the tables and a drive-through window at the local bar. Johnson doesn't miss a beat. "It's also a highly critical community, so people will let you know if it's second- or third-rate or whatever," he says. But the lack of a hospital weeds out retirees. He bought it with his wife 11 years ago in a situation he describes as ideal: "You know, as an artist you always see cool buildings and go, 'Oh God, that'd make a great studio.' Brian Santa Maria/iStockphoto.com Videos were projected on a wall, and visitors drifted in and out. “It’s my 40th birthday, and I’ve wanted to do this for years. The artist Donald Judd collected more than 13,000 books, many of which are now housed in a curated library in Marfa, Texas, the town Judd made his home from 1979 until his death in 1994. Citoyen du Monde Inc/Flickr Their pearl-buttoned shirts and cowboy boots can make the place feel like a Western-themed outpost of Brooklyn. She sold the lot in two weeks, transforming his career. Nearly every storefront on Highland Avenue leading up to the courthouse was empty, save the ones installed with artwork by Judd. Part of the thrill of being in Marfa is adding to what Judd left undone. Like every day.” Smith said of the piece, “Like Alice’s rabbit hole, [it] will take you as deep as you want to go.” Sponsored by Ballroom Marfa, the artists re-created a burned-out methamphetamine lab, a red-carpeted Upper East Side mansion, and a hippie Valhalla. In front of the bookstore, dressed in black, Marianne Stockebrand seemed, by virtue of her impeccable posture, to tower above the Francophiles gathered around her. In 2011 they featured 70s and early-80s No Wave films alongside banned and sexually explicit work by Clark. Weiner estimates the Chinati Foundation received 10- or 11,000 visitors last year, more than twice as many as eight years ago. rare country songs a couple of hours a week for the local NPR station (smallest listenership in the Lower 48), or operate a pirate radio station from a “jailbroken” iPhone (recently shut down by the F.C.C.). Picture the short-cropped hair and concentrated features of the artist who painted black text on white canvas: Wool played pool. His friend began pistoning on the barstool, feigning intimacy with a leper. Sign up for our essential daily brief and never miss a story. The tiny West Texas border town of Marfa is 200 miles from anywhere, but after the late minimalist artist Donald Judd acquired dozens of its buildings, filling them with everything from Rembrandts to light sculptures, art-world pioneers and pilgrims made it their playground. This was in contrast to the traditional method of art museums, where work was only featured for a month or two before being put back into storage. Out-of-towners — who are not oblivious to the impact they're having — tend to get higher income jobs with real mobility. An art teacher and waitress changed the video on the wall from a ballet dancer performing on a rainy Oakland street corner to rapper Kreayshawn in Minnie Mouse ears strutting through Beverly Hills: “Gucci Gucci, Louis Louis, Fendi Fendi, Prada.” Clark took in the scene with a slightly detached air. Tamarind … Teal Dress said, “Leprosy?! It was time to go. Once, only dedicated Judd fans braved the varmints, not to mention the distance and the heat to see this world-class collection. Others, in their 20s, are finishing up first albums, first novels, first films, or first installations while working three jobs and wearing fashion-blog-worthy vintage ensembles. It all started when the acclaimed minimalist artist Donald Judd left New York City in the 1970s for this dusty dot of a town. hide caption. Vanity Fair may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. Irwin went on. Lowe told us, “By the end it felt like the whole town had contributed in one way or another.”. Marfa, TX 79843. And it was like, amazing, but then it was also kind of creepy. One of the most important minimalist artists to come out of the New York art world in the 1960's, Judd, having grown tired of living and working in the confines of the city, moved to Marfa in 1973. So I started following the course of the Rio Grande. NPR! He carried on up the East Coast, all along Canada, and back home to L.A. “I circled it,” Irwin said. Not an art patron but just curious. “Oh,” she said. Deep in the Chihuahuan high desert, Marfa was colonized in 1979 by minimalist sculptor Donald Judd, who purchased a compound of decommissioned military buildings and transformed them into austere exhibition spaces … !” woman, “Do you speak Italian?”, She said, “That’s the only Italian I know.”. Russell in Marfa, Texas. “What kind of French movie?,” Teal Dress wanted to know. Will be used in accordance with our Privacy Policy. In 1978, with financial support from the Dia Art Foundation, Judd began repairs and renovations to the fort’s historic buildings, followed by the fabrication and installation of artwork. Mafa Texas Who Knew. There was no town. (“Oh Christ,” she said, half dismissing it all.). Matt Slocum/AP Some of the first documentation of the area comes from accounts of mobile, luminous pinpoints on the horizon—the Marfa Mystery Lights. In an earlier Web version of this story, as well as the audio, we incorrectly identified sculptor Campbell Bosworth as Campbell Boswell. Fort Davis gets the tourists who want the Wild West, and the relocated baby-boomers who don’t know any better go to Alpine.” Judd’s sculptures may sell for six to eight figures, but he remains a rarefied pleasure, virtually unknown in the world at large. With the help of the DIA Foundation, Judd acquired an entire Army base, and before he died in 1994, he filled it with art, including light installations by Dan Flavin and Judd's own signature boxes. The town was dead. hide caption. He left New York to escape the “glib and harsh” art scene, but because of his singular vision here, Judd laid the groundwork for present-day Marfa, which one resident described as an “East Coast Utopia” and another as an “art cruise ship where you just hope the last stop is a Betty Ford Center.” Take your pick again. Two border-patrol S.U.V.’s idled down the road, observing. He eats red meat. From the mid-1950s to 1961, as he started to explore the medium of the woodcut, Judd progressively moved from figurative to increasingly abstract imagery, first carving organic rounded shapes, then moving on to the painstaking craftsmanship of straight lines and angles. That never happened, but arts tourism has soared. Prada store, an art installation in Marfa. 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